Dream, Struggle and Succeeds to Mt. Everest 2022

Destiny and your Hard work will surely result you succeess.

I am self dependent Middle class boy from remote Nepal completed Bachelor in Travel and Tourism and struggling in Tourism industry. It's not easy to survive only by degree, you need to have your connection or money or power otherwise you have to Struggle like i did. "After Bachelor I worked in construction company as a labor for 3 yrs" before expedition.

I am self dependent, knew myself and get to know the true meaning of life. My Freedom and my life is achieved but my dream stood very far. I was underground and death for about 2yrs i.e dreamless, dry and aimless.

Miracle happen : During my Everest base camp trek (2019) with French client i just simply dreamed to be on top of Mt. Everest.

How Everest Expedition came to my life ??

During my Facebook chat with Mama, "THE SIDDHI TAMANG" i explain my interest to be a part in expedition life with him. We both had just a simple casual talk during our meeting in village too so, he did not know much about me. He advice me to meet in Kathmandu for cup of tea and some casual talk.

As my destiny or something, i met him and exchange some words. He explain everything happening and to be happen in expedition days. I just explain everything about my past and present situation. "IF" or "INCASE" was our final conversation before i depart.

Dream comes true was happening day after day after i visited Siddhi mama's expedition office. I had conversation with senor expedition brothers and get to know more knowledge. Everest expedition became my next life time moments creating events of my life.

Arrangement of expedition equipment :

Money from Labor work is nothing to expedition equipment. I arrange credit somehow from relatives and bought only the important equipment. I got my THE ANAM TAMANG, another godfather who lend me to use every expedition equipment he got. Most of the equipment i used during my expedition were of him. I personally adore him lots. Somehow, equipment were arranged and ready to move.

Training

• Trekking to different parts of Himalayas i.e Physically and mentally knowledge about altitude

• I had not enough money to get training in wall climbing and rock climbing so, I learn to ascent and descent in barren sloppy land near my locality i.e learn how to use Harness and Jhumer and rope.

• 3 hrs early morning and 3 hrs late evening running

• Trek to Tso Rolpa to acclimatize altitude etc.

We made our expedition arrangement for 3 days i.e buying, packing and loading. We are ready for Everest expedition mission so, continue Counting our days to be in field.

Itinerary

1. Kathmandu to Phaplu - 16/03/2022

2. Phaplu to Cheplung -17/03/2022

3. Cheplung to Namche Bazar -18/03/2022

4. Namche Bazar to Pangboche -19/03/2022

5. Pangboche to Gorakshep -20/03/2022

6. Gorakshep to EBC -21/03/2022

Camping sites Setup :

Altitude (5500m) made us difficult to breathe, headache, lost of appetite and just want to sleep. Barren icy landside like area were already fixed by our official brothers to setup base camp camping sites. All the tents, food bags, our belongings were already transported by Yak in our camp site. We got our luggage and starts to setup our own living tent sites. Since the day, we work to setup Tents (Kitchen tent, Dining tent, communication tent, Client tent, shower tent, Poop tent, Urine tent etc.) Weather seems warm and sunny so during day

time small river flow in-between camp site. Above the icy we do have tent and under icy water flows. Every weeks we need to change setup new tent site. Hard works, dedication, tiredness and some time enjoyment setup all the campsite setup.

Ready to move Camp I and Camp II :

World Popular Khumbu Icefall lies between base camp and Camp I. It was my dream to be there. Nearly around 12 AM, we left Base camp with Load of 10 Kgs, i carried 2tents for Camp1 and Camp II. Experience Hanging, walking stiff, walking by icy tower, walking below gigantic ice block that can fall at any moments, passing through aluminum ladder, ascent and descent, windy, cool finally reached to Camp I for the first time. 5 of us was planning to move camp II to fetch tent and other needy equipment. We had a day training in Basecamp before we move to Camp I. It helped me lots to climb hanging. There were 5 hanging all together. It was not easy as i thought.

I had my new pair of shoes, it made me pain lots when i descent. Blood stinks in breathe, finger freezes in hanging, skin burn by windy, body got tired, heart pumps fast. Any way, It was deadly and most adventurous than i think. No more appetite and no more walking after we back to tent because of deadly tired.

We fetch food item, fuels, tents and equipment's to camp 02 in every two day of rest. This act continuous till we move to Camp II.

Clients starts their first rotation to Camp I. They spent one night in Camp I and descend back to Base camp for rest. This rotation helps client to acclimatize and knew the way till camp 01. After a week stay in base camp and starts next rotation to Camp III. They spent night in Camp II & Camp III and descend back to Base Camp. We had our summit plan on May 20th 2022 as our group leader and all group decision. Client will get a week more rest days till our next summit push starts as per our Summit plan date.

Note :

Camp I is over snow plate in front of Everest and below 4 hrs. walk from CampII. We all Climbing sherpa rest here for tea break. Its safer after we walk through Khumbu Icefall. Every clients acclimatize their first rotation in camp I.

Camp II or Advanced Base Camp (6500m) is next long staying place after Base Camp. Its just below of Mt. Everest. Camp II is surrounded by Mt. Everest, Mt. Lothse, and Mt. Nupse. Because of Hot air, It's very difficult to stay inside tent during day time. Hot air Oxygen level became thin. Land structure seems same as Base Camp. we set up Client tents, sherpa tents, dining, store tent and Kitchen tent same but in small camp sites than Base Camp.

Camp III : Its snowy and sloppy camp sites after Camp 02. Its on altitude of around 7000m. Mirror like route where even Crampons can't hold. Its too dangerous and risky camp site. We need to hold Safety and rope every time. If you slip from Camp sites you will be inside Crevasse near to Camp II. Client use Oxygen bottle from Camp III. I saw most of the climbers and clients use oxygen bottle from Camp III but our group of sherpa did not use.

Logic : If we use oxygen in low altitude, our body automatically demand oxygen in low height peaks and mountain so, we used oxygen only from Camp IV.

Yellow Rock or Yellow Band : After your walk from Camp III, you will need to pass huge sloppy Yellow color rock over mirror like route. Snow covered Hard Yellow Rock band. After Camp III, Oxygen bottle changed here for client. Everyone got sleepy. If you close your eye for a second you slept for a minute. Its the feeling i got. Two steps and rest, two steps and rest is the way you walk. While rest rest in your Knee by bending over knee. I ate GU, energy diet and drank enough water that's helps to free your tiredness in walking.

Lhotse Last Camp : Oxygen Bottle and rope are kept in Lhotse Last camp needy to climb Mt. Lhotse. I sat for half and hour with collogue drinking, eating and enjoying view. If sun met you here, you are lucky if you met sun below than here its hard to walk.

Geneva Spur : Snow covered black rock band which is very sloppy and stiff before reaching to Camp IV, South Col. A minute of rest and climb 4 steps continue for everyone.

South Col/ Death Zone : Windy, low pressure so, low oxygen level. We kept block of stone inside the tent in order to set up tent otherwise wind blow the tent and impossible to setup. and sometime Four of us stands in four corner and setup the tent. We use oxygen from here so, need to carry a bottle of oxygen every time. I tied oxygen bottle with a rope and carry like a bag. Even in toilet. Its our 3rd time to be here in south col because, we had already been here during we transport oxygen and high food for 2 times.

We move for summit push at 1:00 am in the morning with 4 bottle of oxygen i.e 2 for self and 2 for clients. I took oxygen on the pressure of 02 where clients use on 04/04. This is the proudest moment for Nepalese to birth in Himalayas who can survive was in high altitude too. We were like the group of ants walking in row with head lamp in forehead, safety and Jhumer in hand, oxygen mask in mouth and load in back. Gorkhali in the field like feeling was inside me. Everyone were in hurry to be on top. Give up is not on anyone mind and soul. I was Physically strong since child so, Give up never came to me. At any cost, i need to stand in the top. I was feared that, If client gave up then i also need to return back so, motivate client to be strong physically and mentally.

The Balcony : After a long walk and sloppy mirror like slopes we reached to Balcony with huge Rock. Clients changed oxygen bottle and kept empty bottle hanging here. Weight of bag decrease a bit but feels same weight like before because of altitude. Hanging by rope and lean make me very comfortable because weight totally falls over rope. Not good sleep at night make sleepy while walking.

South Summit and Rock wall/ Hillary Step : Death body was seen just on the way below of summit. Snow Capped high rocky, sloppy route before summit. Most dangerous and tiresome route. Cramhon gets slip and need to be very careful in the area. Dry air blow here. Tired and hungry at the same time. I ate chocolate and recharge my energy. My goggle betrayed me. All the breathe out from oxygen gets into eye glass and makes me difficult. Windy, Snow falls and weather was worst.

Finally Summit : At 11:00am i created history for my life. I stood in the world's highest place, world's highest mountain Mt. Everest 8848.86m. Prithivi Narayan Shah statue welcomed every summiteer reached here. Heaven like feeling, proudest feeling, wining feeling, cry, cried, confusion, dream ever things comes to you. You will memorize everyone your enemy, your family, your friends, you and everyone. Every things are below you, only you are standing high. I chant my mother name and thanks to the Siddhi Mama, and thanks to god. After our 15min stay we descend down from the same route. Finally History to me created on

MAY 20, 2022 at 11:00AM

April 17,2022 : Ceremonial day

May 20, 2022 11:00 AM : Summit day

May 18, 2022 : South col day

May 19, 2022 : Rest day in South Col

May 20,2022 : Summit day